I will be the first to admit that drip line and drip emitters are not needed if Mother Nature is bringing her best and what plants desire. Yet, she can be quite finicky and not a woman you want to rely on when your plants need what they need.
Installing a basic drip line system is not so costly and could save you from watering your plants by hand, saving you time and money. They also allow for more routine watering, perhaps times when you are away. Most timers have a rain delay whereas you simply halt timing for coming scheduled day and time and the schedule resumes for the next event scheduled.
If you have existing drip lines in your beds, here are a few tips to ensuring they work:
Note: Don't assume your drip line system operates like it did the first year, or last year. Tubing may collapse, debris may encroach the line or connections may have come loose - all of which are easily repairable.
- If you have a drip line system, go to the source spigot/hose bid, locate such and follow the hose/tubing from there to its far-end, looking for crushed, cut or broken tubing. Someone working in the bed or something with a gnawing habit may have cut or broken the tubing. If crushed or crimped, use both hands on either side of the problem and see if you can flex, pressure or wiggle the crimp out. Applying water pressure may take care of this.
- If you have a timer, ensure the batteries have an adequate charge. I recommend using rechargeable batteries and a charger for this, and many other appliances.
- Most timers will have a manual mode whereby you can turn the system on, bypassing the time schedule. Use this and check all the drip-holes, emitters and other devices attached to the system. Most drip line tubing has holes (emitters) every, six, twelve or eighteen inches. Typically, depending on water pressure and length of the system, you will be able to hear the water flow, particularly the first few minutes.
- If you have what you believe is low or restricted water output or several areas/devices with no output and you see no obvious reason (as mentioned above), go to the far-end and remove (unscrew) the end-cap or the device used to hold the crimp together. Hopefully, the person who installed the drip line didn't use duct tape to hold the crimp, in order to make your life more difficult. By having the far-end open, this may help allow any collected debris to move out of the tubing.
- Most repairs to the tubing usually only involve cutting away the bad section and installing a coupler or replacing a coupler/connection itself.
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