Protecting Plants from The Freeze

                                                                                                                                     

Note: This

article primarily addresses ornamental plants, not edible vegetable and fruit plants.

We are going to reach low temperatures we usually don't experience this early in the season. Fortunately, a freeze going into winter is typically less threatening to plants than freezes coming out of winter.

Most established in-ground plants not showing any new foliage or blooms (dormancy) are not going to show much affect from a freeze. Their roots get to take advantage of ground temperatures which are nowhere near freezing - this ain't Maine. New tender growth and blooms may get blasted, but the plant should survive.

Potted plants are more vulnerable because they cannot take advantage of ground soil temperatures, and cold temperatures and wind may cause drying.

Tender perennials which may have proven hardy over the last few winters, may take a beating this time, but should return on time next year.

If you can, move suspect potted plants indoors or to a garage or shed. Or, at least, move them to ground level in a protected corner or along your home's foundation, perhaps behind some in-ground shrubs. The main objective is to get them out of the wind as best as possible. You may wish to group the pots and cover.

Covering plants, potted or in-ground, does help. To what extent depends on the cover material, its size and your ability to take the cover edges to the ground.

There are several manufactured plant protectors - commonly called frost blankets or frost covers. Yet, there are several old household items you can use - sheets, blankets, table cloths, painter's drop cloths, burlap, etc. 

The rigidness of the plant and what weight it can tolerate may influence what material(s) you choose. Ones with more natural materials will provide better airflow, but may allow more moisture to pass while plastic blocks most moisture, but does not allow airflow. 

Because we typically have short-term freezes here in the Midlands I use 3mil plastic contractor bags because they are convenient for the plants I need to protect. Of course, they can also be cut or torn if you need to reconfigure the cover. If the freeze becomes extensive, I can simply remove the plastic during the warmer daylight hours and then re-cover. This will allow the plant(s) to breathe for a while.

The most effective use of a cover is one in which you can ensure multiple points of the edges make contact with and/or are secured to the ground. This helps the foliage and blooms of the plant take greater advantage of ground warmth.

Of course, all this effort depends on the size and shape of the plant and what materials you have available or can obtain.

You may have a Sasanqua or a rose plant blooming right now which needs to be covered or a sub-tropical plant which needs to go inside.

If you have plants and/or plant beds lacking or lean on mulch, you may want to replenish and ensure the mulch reaches the trunk or main stem. This will help the ground, therefore the roots, retain more heat.

Recently planted plants showing new growth or blooms may benefit from some protection.

Sago palms are not actually palms. They are among cycads, a plant which has been around since prehistoric times. The sago is cycas revoluta. It has leaves instead of fronds, as it is not a palm.

Sago palms will tend to turn a bronze color after the leaves have been damaged during temperatures below 32 degrees. I have no idea of how far below freezing or for how long. I have simply covered (Substantial sago palms are not fun to cover.) them with black plastic contractor bags and not secured the cover to the ground for both potted and in-ground plants. This did prevent most of the leaves from turning bronze.

I have also not covered them and enjoyed the bronze leaves for weeks.

One thing I can firmly say is do not cut off the damaged leaves until after the last freeze. Not doing so aids the plant's health overall in recovering and can help protect the young shoots. I only cut back the damaged leaves after new shoots have emerged and unfurled completely.

Stay warm!

Happy Holidays!!!