Blind Corners...Do Your Neighbors a Favor

 

I have pruned and/or removed many shrubs and trees near a customer's driveway in order to enable a better view while leaving home and entering a roadway.

As I drive around Forest Acres and other areas, particularly neighborhoods, I often encounter intersections where I have no safe view of the roadway, particularly potential cross-traffic. Putting the front of one's vehicle out into an intersection to gain a better view is not safe. I am certain this is not unique to our area.

I also encounter this on tight back roads and curves where the plant life and foliage is over-grown...it's troubling.

A blind corner or intersection is exactly that...blind - unsafe and dangerous. Now, we are no longer dealing with simply leaving a driveway we are familiar with, but navigating another roadway or intersection at much higher speeds.

Not potentially as dangerous as the near-hidden Stop Sign in the photo, but any obscured intersection or roadway is dangerous.

Please take the time to assess whether your property, its shrubs or trees, may be causing such a hindrance.

This is not simply about your neighbors, but fellow drivers and pedestrians as well.

At a minimum, go out and trim or hack those plants back.

Or, contact me and I will see what is necessary to permanently resolve the problem or make it more manageable over time.

And, if you have shrubs and trees hiding that beautiful home you paid a small fortune for, I'll help you with that.

Doug Ingbretsen

Back40 Landscape Restoration and Maintenance

803-553-5757

Spruce Weed and Grass Killer

 

Firstly, I am not rewarded for mentioning/promoting any product...perhaps one day.

Over the last few months, I have been testing a few herbicides on my property as well as my customers.

Regardless of the legal claims against Roundup and its use of glyphosate, I never found it effective.

Perhaps it is effective on a larger scale with aerial agricultural applications. Which may have led to the legal claims of harm to health.

Again, I never found it effective when attempting to kill/mitigate weeds or what I simply classify as unwanted growth.

However, on the recommendation of a customer, I have found Spruce very effective at killing/disrupting the foliage of most any weed and young plant.

The manufacturer touts it killing the roots and I don't know if it does such. The average user would not know so and I have a way of testing such, but I don't know if I will take the time to test this.

Nonetheless, visually, it seems to be the most effective weed killer I have ever used.

Of course, depending on the environ and the plant bed, its presentation or posture on your property...even if you kill unwanted growth, you may still need/want to remove by hand.

Spruce claims to be non-toxic to pets and humans.

Spruce is the best solution I have found.

 

Fall - The Time to Prune, Plant and Plan...Re-orchestrate

Well, it is Fall in the Midlands. Not that all the growing and blooming has ceased. 

But, many of our plants and  landscapes have experienced much growth - for some, out-of-hand growth over the growing season.

You had (or perhaps, had not) spent much of the summer keeping up with or maintaining your property, beautifully.

Nonetheless, fall and winter are a wonderful time to prune, plant and plan for next year. Why wait?

Plants and their intentions, their DNA, their hormones, love some additional care and attention from their proprietors.

Pruning: Proper pruning this time of year helps your plants prepare for next year, and done well, provides them the future direction of growth which best suits their position and place on your property.

Planting: So many of your favorite plants and those you have in mind for next year will benefit from being placed where you wish, right now, in the warm earth, rather than sitting in a pot in a nursery. Place them where you wish now and enjoy with less effort next season.

Plan: Walk your property and discover what plants and plant beds, trees and shrubs need addressing in regard to their spread, growth and health.

Re-orchestrate: It's your property - determine what you want and where, and blend the components of your landscape - the plants, the collective beds, the specimen plants and trees.

Next season, next year, next spring, will be more enjoyable.

Other Considerations

• Prune and/or remove (overgrowth, intruding and encroaching branches, vines, etc.).
• Clean out weeds (remove).
• Pressure-wash man-made surfaces - drive and walkways, decks, retaining walls, siding, foundations, etc.
• Re-establish plant bed borders.
• Re-stain/seal decks.
• Simply do some outdoor housekeeping for football season, family and friend visits and the approaching holidays.

Need assistance? Give us a call at 803-553-5757, go to back40.us or use the Contact Us feature above.

Just call me, Doug.

Off-Season Lawn Edging

So, what do I mean by off-season?

Well, this could be the non-growing time of the year whereas your turf grass leaves (blades) are not growing vertically or are dormant.

Or, it could be your state-of-mind as you see no reason for lawn maintenance except for keeping it clear of debris - leaves, pine straw, branches, etc.

For most of the off-season, you will notice very little to no vertical growth. Most of the warm season turf grasses which we have here in the midlands put out stolons (runners). These lateral above-ground root stems seek out the warm earth during the off-season and unless impeded by some barrier, will find their way beyond what you define as your lawn and into your plant beds or other areas.

Even with some bed borders, these stolons will still find a way under, through or over, depending on the type and depth.

The spread of the stolons varies and some are more noticeable such as centipede reaching quite far to take root over a barren piece of earth.

Unattended, any of the grasses can take root in your plant beds and require more work to remove. Successfully edging (cutting through a stolon) doesn't mean you solved the problem. It will grow and root again, and repeat.

But, if you or your lawn service routinely check these borders and edge regularly, or as needed, you will have cleaner beds and a better-looking lawn.

In the photo you will notice the right border is concrete and although the grass has no chance of re-rooting and continuing, it is quite unsightly.

The remaining edge of the lawn has what I call a natural border, as the lawn meets the bed with no man-made or other type of barrier. I believe these are very attractive when maintained, but are more susceptible to grass creep.

So, walk around your property and make note of where your lawn abuts whatever - a plant bed, a walkway, a ground level patio.

With some attention to detail, the delineation of your landscape's components will make all stand out and complement one another.

Winter Landscape Maintenance...So Much You Can Do, Now

Well, it is still Fall in the Midlands. Although we have had this very odd cold spell, we will soon return to our normal South Carolina climes.

Beyond planting and planning (see 

Planting and Planning...Now is the Time!, the coming Winter months are a great time to do some landscape house-keeping which will save you time and make the growing season more enjoyable.

Expand and/or re-shape plant beds: This year's growth may have outgrown the borders of your plant beds. Rather than handcuff your plants to some un-natural and unattractive size, expand the border and perhaps give it a new, interesting, but manageable shape. 

Pressure wash: Depending on temperature, you may not wish to wash anything thing too high (The backsplash can get quite discomforting.); however, this is a great time to pressure wash driveways, walkways, retaining walls, decks and foundations. Most of these surfaces have collected all types of debris and foreign matter during the last several months.

Repair stone, paver and brick walkways and patios: Some of the materials used on your walkways or patios may be a little or very cattywampus. There could be many reasons, but typically this is due to underlying roots. 

Whatever the case, repair or eliminate the cause and reset the stones, pavers or bricks.

Continue lawn care: Most, if not all turf grasses in this area are warm season grasses. Although their leaves' (blade) growth may slow or stop, their roots are not dormant and still need a few elements - water and air. The ground temperature in the Midlands rarely goes below 42 degrees for the first four inches, which is where your grass roots and those of most other plants live.

Leaves, pine straw, etc. on your lawn can block sunlight, limit air exchange and trap moisture. Rake, blow or mow (bag attachment preferred) this debris from your lawn. You may wish to use some of this as mulch in your beds even if you plan to place fresh mulch later. This will help keep your plants warm and retain moisture.

Occasionally water your lawn if we go without rain for a while. Do so during early daylight hours on a nice sunny day above freezing.

Edge your lawn borders, particularly if you have St. Augustine or centipede grasses, as their stolons (surface stems, so to speak) may still be reaching outward.

Install ground lighting: Obviously, we have less daylight hours during winter, so this is a great time to install ground lighting. This can be done for aesthetics, safety or security, or all the above.

Prune: All types of pruning can be done this time of year on a variety of plants. And, I am not speaking of taking hedge trimmers to your plants, but proper pruning.

This can be done to reduce a plant, remove dead and awkward stems and branches, raise canopies (limb up) and to thin plants which have been trimmed repetitively, to improve their health.

Proper pruning on many flowering shrubs will help produce individually larger blooms while leaving a balanced backdrop of foliage.

Plant and Plan: Save yourself from being overwhelmed by Spring and Summer landscaping goals by getting started sooner. Please go to Planting and Planning...Now is the Time!

In other words, Winter is a wonderful time to balance out your budget and time spent on your landscape, and your plants may have a happier Spring.

We provide all these services, so please contact me to see how we may assist you...803-553-5757 or use the Contact Us button above.

Thank you.

Happy Holidays!

Planting and Planning...Now is the Time!

Fortunately, here in the Midlands of South Carolina, the ground temperature never approaches anything near freezing. Therefore, you can plant most any plant from now until Spring.

Most of the plants you and I will find are growing in a pot at some nursery and will be much happier in the ground, whereas the ground temperatures are in the forties.

So, quit fretting about planting in the fall and winter. And, just get busy doing it. There are several advantages to doing so.

• You get ahead of Spring fever when costs are elevated and availability lessens.
• Your plants have spent more time developing their roots and later have more resources for blooms.
• Fall and winter planting requires less watering and maintenance.
• Weed control is more manageable. 
• Overall, most plants will be more productive and dramatic in the Spring if they get an early start...which is now.

 

  If you don't want to deal with a new plant bed or aspect of your landscape right now, then start planning for late winter or spring. Call me or someone else so that we can begin restoring a plant bed, creating a new one or perhaps getting creative with another aspect of your property.

The sooner, the better, so that we may plan well ahead of plant availability and cost.

We can soon begin clearing out old unwanted plant beds and plants, designing new beds and vignettes. 

Therefore; you may more so enjoy the Spring, Summer and seasons to come.

It's Fall - Such a Wonderful Time to Do So Much with Your Landscape

Well, it is Fall in the Midlands. Not that all the growing and blooming has ceased, but for many of us our landscapes have experienced much growth - for some, out-of-hand growth.

You had (or perhaps, had not) spent much of the summer keeping up with or keeping your property, beautiful.

Some of this growth is obvious in some of your more open format trees and shrubs while much of the interior mess is hidden beneath the surface of those more compact shrubs and hedges you've been trimming since April.

Fall (and Winter) is a wonderful season to get at those plants with some well planned and executed pruning to keep them healthy, airy and attractive for next season. A few may need some corrective measures, but you will need to get inside them a little to know what's truly going on with those gorgeous things you spent time and money on.

There are many shrubs and trees which can be pruned in Fall depending on the plants bloom-habit and your preference. Actually, there aren't many plants which can't be pruned (not indiscriminately trimmed or sheared) most any time of year if the right care and techniques are used. And, many will still produce plenty of blooms to enjoy when the time comes. So, if you've missed that ideal time and your favorite whatever(s) is now a mess, let's take care of it soon so you can enjoy it through the holidays and even more so in the Spring.

Depending on the plant, there are many which can be planted or transplanted during the Fall, getting established before and during Winter (If we have one.) and ready to roll next Spring. We don't live in Vermont so the ground temperatures allow for planting virtually year-round. And, you won't be scrambling around during Spring when your existing plants need attention.

NOTE: I have been planting, designing and installing plant beds more and more each year, more and more throughout the year, throughout the Fall and Winter. Many or most property owners only consider doing such when temperatures are warm and life is great during the early Spring, and thereafter. The problem - growers, nurseries and guys like me can't keep up, meet the demand and we simply run out of solutions. If it, the plant you desire, is an evergreen or woody perennial it would rather be in the ground (much warmer) than sitting in a pot (more exposed to colder temps). In other words, most all these plants do well, but they'd do much better in your properties soil and you could avoid availability issues in the Spring.

Also, with all the humidity, rainfall, growth, and reproduction and its associate droppings, pitch and debris our properties experienced over Spring and Summer, Fall is the perfect time to:

• Prune and/or remove (overgrowth, intruding and encroaching branches, vines, etc.).
• Clean out weeds (remove).
• Pressure wash man-made surfaces - drive and walkways, decks, retaining walls, siding, foundations, etc.
• Re-establish plant bed borders.
• Re-stain/seal decks.
• Simply do some outdoor housekeeping for football season, family and friend visits and the approaching holidays.

And, please remember two things about lawn grasses even after we get out of the growing season (whenever that may be):

• They still take advantage of sunlight so don't wait until you have this downy-like comforter of leaves and/or pine straw on your yard to blow or rake them away - do it when needed.
• Their root system will still enjoy some H2O occasionally even when it's not 90° and 85% humidity.

Need assistance? Give us a call at 803-553-5757, go to back40.us or use the Contact Us feature to the right.

Here We Go Again...Those Early Spring Lawn Weeds

Every homeowner wants a beautiful lawn...certainly.

I haven't provided basic lawn care in quite a while, but when I did, I studied lawns, soils and turf grasses just as I continue to study shrub and tree care.

Slightly earlier, due to weather, this is that time of year when those lawn weeds may seem more prevalent than our turf grass.

If you have or have had a well-established lawn, the presence of weeds, now or over the next few weeks should not be cause for much alarm. I'm not stating this emphatically, but my experience with many, many properties, is to simply wait it out.

In other words, don't go to extremes or spend much time and money trying to resolve an issue which will probably go away on its own - by nature's accord.

Over the years (this time of year) I have received many calls from customers concerned about prolific weeds in their lawns. These are usually identified as dandy lions or cat's eyes/ears or whatever. I can't keep track. Many of these weeds are annuals. This doesn't mean their off-spring won't come back next year; however, they are usually short-lived. A healthy lawn (evergreen, by nature) will usually win out.

Following are a few things you or your lawn service can perform:

• Set mower height one inch below what is set during the growing season and mow even if the grass is not yet high (probably not) to lower weeds and catch their weed heads/flowers.
• Use a collection bag on your mower. You don't want to distribute weed heads/flowers about your lawn.
• If your lawn debris is not carried off or bagged, but placed roadside, spray it with water so that weed heads/flowers can't be blown back onto your property by the wind. Shake out your mower bag well and perhaps rinse it with water while not on your lawn. Do not place the debris in a compost pile.
• You probably didn't remove all the weeds, but you just removed most of the reproductive elements and now you can at least see your lawn.
• Yet, you may have some broadleaf weeds which love to spread out wide and retard turf grass growth by blocking sunlight. Use a specific (friendly to your turf grass - read the label) weed killer or use a weed removing tool, Trake, trowel or mattock to remove. Some of these weeds will be deep-rooted so you may want to spend some extra time getting their roots out of the ground.
• Water your lawn. All plants love water (including weeds), but your turf grass roots' growth will aid in preventing weed growth.

Hopefully, these few measures will have your lawn looking healthy and well in the coming weeks.

Trake

 

Spring Comes Quickly...Don't Waste Winter

Some of you have properties this well planned and maintained.

Many of you may view this as impossible, for a variety of reasons. 

This winter, how about you grab a warm coat, walk your property, grab a chair, sit back and visualize the changes you can make to only one area, one aspect of your landscape. Any of this is extremely possible.

Take some photos and project what you wish to add or change, and sketch your ideas on some paper. Or, call me. Together, we can orchestrate a wonderful outcome.

Personal Note: In the region we live, there is not much which cannot be done in regard to plant care this time of year. There are few exceptions and there are a few tasks which may be best suited during the growing season. However; one may find oneself overwhelmed and far behind the more vibrant growing season once it is underway. Why wait?

This is what we do: A focused project at a time, and how most of our customers wish to address their desires for their landscape. It works - it's manageable, sane and seeing the changes made over time is quite rewarding.

Only just beginning winter, this is a beneficial and excellent time to start putting plans together for your home's landscape. And, in this environment, here in the Midlands of South Carolina, most restoration and installation can begin way before waiting until you are inundated with the sheer maintenance of your property during the growing season and hot-as-hell summer months.

Basic Maintenance During Winter

• Remove natural debris (leaves and needles) from your lawn if you already haven't. Turf grass still benefits greatly from sunlight and air flow this time of year.
• Continue to edge grass borders as most grass roots still want to stretch out and grow during winter. This will prevent them from making their way into your plant beds and help maintain a manicured look.
• Consider applying a pre-emergent for spring and summer weeds. The effective date for doing so is based on ground temperature and it sneaks up on us quite quickly in this area.
• House those precious potted plants (particularly, tropical) inside or in a secluded area away from the wind if they will handle the ambient temperature. If you know your plant's name (genus and specie), find its climate requirements.
• Don't wait until spring when the temperatures are nice to consider installing an irrigation system in your plant beds or lawn. This isn't Alaska - most of this can be done this time of year. And, if you wait, you may be put off in scheduling by contractors and may pay much more simply due to demand because many homeowners simply don't think about this until is almost warm and sunny.

Advanced Maintenance and Planning

• Pruning (On this subject, I can provide plenty of testament and references.) Pruning of most any plant for health reasons, even for aesthetics/shaping, can be performed most any time of year on most any plant. Try to forgive what your parents, grandparents or even your favorite publication or therapist says.
• Take a look at the growth of your different plant beds and the growth they have experienced. If you are pleased with their growth and your landscape can accommodate such, then consider extending and re-establishing the bed borders to obtain/maintain a clean and clear appearance.
• Consider those trees and larger tree-like shrubs encroaching your home or its roof. Hacking them at what you believe is the proper height is only going to create a more troublesome future mess. They need to be properly pruned or removed.
• Also, consider those plants which obscure your view when pulling out of your driveway or those many shrubs and trees which block the view of stops signs and intersections on so many streets in this area.
• Plan for Spring This is a wonderful time for planning and perhaps executing some changes for your property. I have had a few customers get behind the eight ball and then expect the unexpected in regard to plant availability. I get it. I often don't know until the request is made. Two of my favorite nurseries will find almost anything I ask of them, but their growers can only do so much with a given plant during a season or the year. Plants don't grow on trees - I love saying that. You get the point.
• Refresh or replace (more in a moment) the mulch in your beds since most of the leaf and needle drop has occurred. Mulch provides so much for a plant bed or natural area. Most homeowners apply such for aesthetics. That's great. But, most mulch, properly chosen, in this area, provides shade from the sun for the ground - the base of the plant, water retention and decomposition which aids all the plants in the plant bed. In regard to replacing mulch, I am not saying this should never be done, but in most cases, it shouldn't. The decomposition from the existing mulch is so beneficial - this is one (just one) of the reasons plant bed soil is usually healthier than that in lawns. Just refresh the existing mulch, let it settle and continue the composting process.
• Take the time to consider when you would like to pressure wash your home, decks or patios and apply a stain or sealant - when you'd feel comfortable doing so, weather-wise. Warmer months are obviously more comfortable to do so, but applying stain in too-warm conditions can be less effective in regard to penetration of the chemicals.
• Consider ground lighting. Show off your home's architecture, its plants, both. Add some safety and security to your home living. 

If you need assistance with any of the aforementioned or a comprehensive solution based on your needs or desires, please contact Doug at 803-553-5757 or use the Contact form to the right.

Protecting Plants from The Freeze

                                                                                                                                     

Note: This

article primarily addresses ornamental plants, not edible vegetable and fruit plants.

We are going to reach low temperatures we usually don't experience this early in the season. Fortunately, a freeze going into winter is typically less threatening to plants than freezes coming out of winter.

Most established in-ground plants not showing any new foliage or blooms (dormancy) are not going to show much affect from a freeze. Their roots get to take advantage of ground temperatures which are nowhere near freezing - this ain't Maine. New tender growth and blooms may get blasted, but the plant should survive.

Potted plants are more vulnerable because they cannot take advantage of ground soil temperatures, and cold temperatures and wind may cause drying.

Tender perennials which may have proven hardy over the last few winters, may take a beating this time, but should return on time next year.

If you can, move suspect potted plants indoors or to a garage or shed. Or, at least, move them to ground level in a protected corner or along your home's foundation, perhaps behind some in-ground shrubs. The main objective is to get them out of the wind as best as possible. You may wish to group the pots and cover.

Covering plants, potted or in-ground, does help. To what extent depends on the cover material, its size and your ability to take the cover edges to the ground.

There are several manufactured plant protectors - commonly called frost blankets or frost covers. Yet, there are several old household items you can use - sheets, blankets, table cloths, painter's drop cloths, burlap, etc. 

The rigidness of the plant and what weight it can tolerate may influence what material(s) you choose. Ones with more natural materials will provide better airflow, but may allow more moisture to pass while plastic blocks most moisture, but does not allow airflow. 

Because we typically have short-term freezes here in the Midlands I use 3mil plastic contractor bags because they are convenient for the plants I need to protect. Of course, they can also be cut or torn if you need to reconfigure the cover. If the freeze becomes extensive, I can simply remove the plastic during the warmer daylight hours and then re-cover. This will allow the plant(s) to breathe for a while.

The most effective use of a cover is one in which you can ensure multiple points of the edges make contact with and/or are secured to the ground. This helps the foliage and blooms of the plant take greater advantage of ground warmth.

Of course, all this effort depends on the size and shape of the plant and what materials you have available or can obtain.

You may have a Sasanqua or a rose plant blooming right now which needs to be covered or a sub-tropical plant which needs to go inside.

If you have plants and/or plant beds lacking or lean on mulch, you may want to replenish and ensure the mulch reaches the trunk or main stem. This will help the ground, therefore the roots, retain more heat.

Recently planted plants showing new growth or blooms may benefit from some protection.

Sago palms are not actually palms. They are among cycads, a plant which has been around since prehistoric times. The sago is cycas revoluta. It has leaves instead of fronds, as it is not a palm.

Sago palms will tend to turn a bronze color after the leaves have been damaged during temperatures below 32 degrees. I have no idea of how far below freezing or for how long. I have simply covered (Substantial sago palms are not fun to cover.) them with black plastic contractor bags and not secured the cover to the ground for both potted and in-ground plants. This did prevent most of the leaves from turning bronze.

I have also not covered them and enjoyed the bronze leaves for weeks.

One thing I can firmly say is do not cut off the damaged leaves until after the last freeze. Not doing so aids the plant's health overall in recovering and can help protect the young shoots. I only cut back the damaged leaves after new shoots have emerged and unfurled completely.

Stay warm!

Happy Holidays!!!

The Power of Proper Pruning

I received this photo via text from a customer in regard to a plant on her daughter's property.

She asked, "What is this plant? I love it!" 

Viewing the photo, it took me awhile to wrap my head around this one. I had been on the property four or five times and I was still somewhat lost until I had some reference, but, I still didn't know what particular plant it was/is.

I knew where it was, based on its location. I had asked to prune this plant about nine months prior to this photo. And, I did. The owner said she had never seen a single bloom on it. Nor, had I. 

I was not concerned with what type, genus or species it was. I would have loved to have known, but this is not a necessity when you understand plants and what they are trying to do or what they need. It is a gorgeous Snowball Viburnum.

It had been hacked by their lawn service...indiscriminately trimmed back to a certain height with no regard for its condition or future growth.

Pruning can be artistic, but only based on science...plant physiology. This plant was doomed; not to die, but to be something way short, way short of its design...its DNA.

It's only near term future after being hacked down was to produce an exorbitant amount of new growth, very tender, in the form of weak branches and foliage. This effort, energy and resources stole away from producing bloom, which it needed to flourish. It produced no blooms over the last year.

I pruned to reduce all the bad cuts and removed the resulting dead and cross branches. I also pruned for future growth, which is difficult to explain...it's simply plant physiology. I pruned slightly for aesthetics, but mainly for health reasons. Obviously, its future looked better with some well-thought attention.

In other words, taking an aggressive power trimmer or a chain saw to keep a shrub or tree indiscriminately at bay in regard to height, is futile, purposeless.

She is now this wonderful display of these gorgeous bundles of clustered white flowers, similar to those of a mop-head hydrangea.

She will do well and be the gorgeous plant she was meant to be. At least, she will be able to flower, which most plants strive for...to reproduce. I've rehabbed many a plant. And, I will spend time with this one once again to work with her branch structure, to become a more balanced plant with even greater blooms more evenly distributed along her crown...more attractive.

These plants aren't meant to be trimmed or hacked. They need to be properly pruned with a plan, some thought and proper technique.

For many plants, those we choose to have on our properties - they become a part of us. They add grace, some beautiful distraction or intent to our everyday lives, something playful, interesting or perhaps something spatially and spiritually rewarding.

Feel free to read some of my articles regarding pruning and its advantages. Please go to https://shootsandmatters.blogspot.com/search/label/Pruning.

Plants mostly favor our existence (so, they've told me, on occasion) as we do, theirs.

Let's Raise Those Youngins Right

Through much study and a lot of experience I have learned to prune, as best as possible, many tree-like shrubs and younger trees for future growth, or to train them.

This training may be to accommodate their natural surroundings, man-made obstructions for which they were planted too close or simply their response to the path of the sun.

Or, it may be to take advantage of a specimen plant with ample environs in the most advantageous location on one's property - a place for that plant to truly stand-out and be noticed, and be healthy. 

The opportunity to do so depends on so much - the relative age of the plant and its placement, and more so, what care, lack of attention or abuse it has received.

I cut my teeth in this biz pruning japanese maples (like the one above); receiving much praise from the owner. Well before studying plant physiology, something in my eye and brain told me never to take a trimmer to or to shear these or many other plants I later encountered.

Later I began studying arboriculture, which led to studying horticulture. And, I have a feeling I always will be. I will need to. This is not a tiny field of study - a wonderful thing. I will die well before I have a grasp of all the world's plants (as if that's possible) and even so if I had begun this when I was six years old. Fortunately, understanding plant physiology is the key to pruning and most plant care.

I have rehabbed or restored many senior trees and shrubs, but the rewards are even greater when they are youngsters. This is when you get to coddle and influence them into later producing a more attractive look and a healthier condition. These rewards often come a few years later for the youngsters; yet, the results are awesome and very pleasing.

I have begun to do more of this as I have designed and installed plants and plant beds over the last few years, able to return, monitor and provide some additional pruning - training for the youngins.

There are ways to restore and beautify many other mature shrubs and trees like camellias, sasanquas, dogwoods, crepe myrtles and many, many, many others. This requires some thoughtful evaluation and I probably find more reward in these as the changes are more pronounced.

Many plants live, thrive and die an early death in a forest, a plain or a jungle, but that is their role in those environments. We choose a property with plants or introduce them to our properties hoping they will only live or thrive in the manner we envision.

Well, some may need some assistance for that vision to be realized.

Don't expect a plant to be what it is not...help it be what it can be.

Please go to https://shootsandmatters.blogspot.com/search?q=pruning for more articles about my pruning and other stories as well.

To Bag Lawn Clippings or Not

Every homeowner wants a beautiful lawn...certainly.

I haven't provided basic lawn care in quite a while, but when I did I studied lawns, soils and turf grasses just as I continue to study shrub and tree care.

There shouldn't be much debate about not collecting (bagging) lawn clippings as they provide some of the quickest decomposing material to aid in the soil nutrients. Unless one allows their grass to grow too tall to the point of the clippings providing a blanket to block the sun, the resulting parts of plant life of the exact same ilk return their nutrients back to the soil, quite quickly. 

Here is the difference and I am only going to cite one of many instances which may occur throughout the year or the growing season. Bear with me.

I have had many customers over the years call me or show concern about the weeds which occur late winter and early spring. I have been on their properties for years and realize many of these weeds lose out to healthy lawns or have a very short life - a few to several weeks. And, later they are gone. Their lawns are again gorgeous throughout most of the year.

I am not going to get into all the genus and species of weeds, but many of these lawn weeds this time of year are short-lived annuals. Yet, an annual weed is not necessarily innocuous simply because one may believe its life has ended after dying, never to return.

Many of these weeds produce flowers or seed heads which when scattered by the wind, transferred by pollinators or left to fall to the ground, only wish to reproduce. And, they do so only waiting for next year and the opportunity to ugly your lawn again.

So, here are a few ways to reduce their impact on your lawn when you recognize these abhorrent little creatures:

Note 1: I say reduce as you are not going to eliminate the potential for weeds in your lawn and the decision to bag clippings or not will depend on your lawn's situation and your desire to make slight changes throughout the year unless you have an overwhelming weed problem.

Note 2: If you mow your lawn or have it mowed frequently (not too frequently and not too short) during the growing season you are probably preventing many seed heads from developing and should take advantage of mulching and returning the clippings back to earth.

Note 3: Mulching mowers work best, but they are only as good as the condition of the blade(s).

• Catch the weeds early by mowing the areas of your lawn which are affected by using a mower with a bag attachment.
• If your lawn service doesn't normally bag your lawns clippings ask them to bag the clippings and return to bag-less mowing when the flowering weeds are not so prevalent. Of course, depending on the size of your lawn, they may charge a little more for the time to empty the bags/containers.
• Or (many lawn services have a push mower), if you don't have large affected areas, ask your lawn service to use a push mower, with bag attached, to cover these areas while the faster riding mower (without bag attached) with larger blade swath takes care of the rest. They will want to ensure the height for both mower decks/blades are as similar as possible to not show variations in your lawn height. 

Note: You may want to bag weed clippings or cover them with other debris if you place them roadside so that the seeds are not carried by the wind.

Personally (I have a small lawn and many plant beds.), I dig up the larger broadleaf weeds with a small three-tine heavy metal rake (more of an extraction tool than a rake) snapping the tines below the surface of the weed and removing as much of the root as possible.

Trake

And, I mow using the bag attachment in late winter until later in early spring until I notice very little or no weeds with flowers or seed heads.

Then as we move into the turf grass growing season I mulch only and use no bag.

That's it: Just a little attention, some thought and adjustment and you'll probably see a reduction in weeds.

 

Get the Jump on Spring Planning and Landscaping

Some of you have properties this well planned and maintained.

Many of you may view this as impossible, for a variety of reasons. 

Well, how about you walk your property, grab a chair, sit back and visualize the changes you can make to only one area, one aspect. Any of this is extremely possible.

This is what we do; a focused project at a time, and how most of our customers wish to address their desires for their landscape. It works - it's manageable, sane and seeing the changes made over time is quite rewarding.

Almost half-way through winter, it is a beneficial and excellent time to start putting plans together for your home's landscape. And, in this environment, here in the Midlands of South Carolina, most restoration and installation can begin way before waiting until you are inundated with the sheer maintenance of your property during the growing season and hot-as-hell summer months.

Basic Maintenance During Winter

• Remove natural debris (leaves and needles) from your lawn if you already haven't. Turf grass still benefits greatly from sunlight and air flow this time of year.
• Continue to edge grass borders as most grass roots still want to stretch out and grow during winter. This will prevent them from making their way into your plant beds and help maintain a manicured look.
• Consider applying a pre-emergent for spring and summer weeds. The effective date for doing so is based on ground temperature and it sneaks up on us quite quickly in this area.
• House those precious potted plants (particularly, tropical) inside or in a secluded area away from the wind if they will handle the ambient temperature. If you know your plant's name (genus and specie), find its climate requirements.
• Don't wait until spring when the temperatures are nice to consider installing an irrigation system in your plant beds or lawn. This isn't Alaska - most of this can be done this time of year. And, if you wait, you may be put off in scheduling by contractors and may pay much more simply due to demand because many homeowners simply don't think about this until is almost warm and sunny.

Winter Restoration and Enhancements 

• Pruning (On this subject, I can provide plenty of testament and references.) Pruning of most any plant for health reasons, even for aesthetics/shaping, can be performed most any time of year on most any plant. Try to forgive what your parents, grandparents or even your favorite publication says.
• Take a look at the growth of your different plant beds and the growth they have experienced. If you are pleased with their growth and your landscape can accommodate such, then consider extending and re-establishing the bed borders to obtain/maintain a clean and clear appearance.
• Consider those trees and larger tree-like shrubs encroaching your home or its roof. Hacking them at what you believe is the proper height is only going to create a more troublesome future mess. They need to be properly pruned or removed.
• Also, consider those plants which obscure your view when pulling out of your driveway or those many shrubs and trees which block the view of stops signs and intersections on so many streets in this area.
• Plan for Spring This is a wonderful time for planning and perhaps executing some changes for your property. I have had a few customers get behind the eight ball and then expect the unexpected in regard to plant availability. I get it. I often don't know until the request is made. Two of my favorite nurseries will find almost anything I ask of them, but their growers can only do so much with a given plant during a season or the year. Plants don't grow on trees - I love saying that. You get the point.
• Refresh or replace (more in a moment) the mulch in your beds since most of the leaf and needle drop has occurred. Mulch provides so much for a plant bed or natural area. Most homeowners apply such for aesthetics. That's great. But, most mulch, properly chosen, in this area, provides shade from the sun for the ground - the base of the plant, water retention and decomposition which aids all the plants in the plant bed. In regard to replacing mulch, I am not saying this should never be done, but in most cases, it shouldn't. The decomposition from the existing mulch is so beneficial - this is one (just one) of the reasons plant bed soil is usually healthier than that in lawns. Just refresh the existing mulch, let it settle and continue the composting process.
• Take the time to consider when you would like to pressure wash your home, decks or patios and apply a stain or sealant - when you'd feel comfortable doing so, weather-wise. Warmer months are obviously more comfortable to do so, but applying stain in too-warm conditions can be less effective in regard to penetration of the chemicals.
• Consider ground lighting. Show off your home's architecture, its plants, both. Add some safety and security to your home living. 

If you need assistance with any of the aforementioned or a comprehensive solution based on your needs or desires, please contact Doug at 803-553-5757 or use the Contact form to the right.

What is that Mossy, Moldy Stuff Clinging to My Tree? - Plant Care Myths

Well, if it looks like the stuff clinging to the Sweetgum tree in the photo, it is neither one. It is lichen.

Lichen is the result of a symbiotic relationship between fungi, algae and bacteria. And, other than clinging to this tree, or the cast iron bench or decorative stone in your backyard, it is doing nothing to the home it finds. It simply got lucky and found an opportune place to live. It may ugly up your favorite dogwood or eventually ruin the paint on that chair or arbor, but it will cause no disease or structural damage.

Leave that old car your grandparents left you which is parked by that old shed in the back and lichen will probably take a likin' to it as well, in a suitable environment.

Other than the fact that lichen is technically not moss or mold, (certain species may appear similar) lichen is not too happy in dark or heavily shaded areas. In this relationship the bacteria and algae photosynthesize and help feed the fungus. So, lichens usually are found in areas with adequate sunlight.

Although lichen can be found on ailing trees it is not the cause of such conditions. I do see lichen on many dying native dogwoods in the area and I experience it on trees no longer producing much foliage (dying native dogwoods) because the lichen has found a location now with adequate sunlight.

It can easily be found on healthy plants such as on the lower trunk area of mature trees which now have higher canopies, receiving more sunlight.

Yes, most lichen are not aesthetically pleasing. Believe it or not, some are. If you are wanting to remove lichen, try rubbing the bulk off with your hand or use the jet setting on your garden hose nozzle. If you try scraping it off with some tool be mindful of the bark below. You don't want to injure an already failing tree, or any tree, for that matter.

Some lichens have barely any elevation or texture and appear as discolorations of the host surface, and they are difficult to remove. 

There are supposedly over 20,000 species of lichen that come in many colors, shapes and textures and there are four groups basically determined by form and texture. They all take on their appearance based on the varying species of fungi, algae and bacteria involved.

So, if you see this stuff on your property, don't liken it to some ill-willed disease causing problem. Who knows? You may take a lichen to it.

Okay, I'll stop. Like, right now.

Another Japanese Maple Rehab

Japanese Maple - After - (Click image to enlarge.)

No. This is not all I do. I wish.

Over the past several weeks I have done a fair amount of pruning and we have also been working on restoring and cleaning out many areas and beds, installing new ones, while also performing some basic housekeeping on some properties.

The usual problem, once again, as with many japanese maples I come upon - they have become blobs. They have been ignored, improperly cut or sheared. The latter should never be done to one of these jewels.

This one was victim of some cutting to control her size and for an easier path on the walkway. This poorly executed task produced this mess - the blob that hid her gorgeous and unique branch structure.  Arbitrarily cutting or taking trimmers to japanese maples (and many other plants) is like hiding that expensive Christmas tree and all its beautiful ornaments with tinsel. 

This japanese maple, created by Mother Nature, with very few flaws and lines nothing short of majestic, simply needed some proper attention.

She can now show off and live in all her glory to be shared by the proud owner.

Japanese Maple - Before

Lori is No Longer with Us!

 

Lori (such an original thought, ahem) was the name I gave this Loropetalum which came to hover around and protect my mail box.

She is (was) actually two loropetalums and I have spent many years shaping/trimming her and occasionally getting inside of her and performing some earnest pruning because I trimmed her so often.

I have received remarks from "Tacky" to "I love her", regarding her. This photo was taken a few days ago and she was always gorgeous, but more so, when she had the reddish-purple foliage and those small pink flowers. 

She had housed the mail box for years, sometimes to the frustration of the mail carrier if I didn't stay on top of making the mail box easily accessible.

Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds...unless some gorgeous loropetalum is comforting the mail box. Unless they are scared of waking every day and can't perform a task while working without yapping on their phones or texting.

Nonetheless, Lori's time had come. You can only hold back the DNA of a plant for so long and she wanted to be a bigger girl than we anticipated. Not only was she minimizing the parking space in the driveway, she was making it difficult for friends and family to view the driveway and turn in or back out.

I now know how many of customer's feel about heirloom or cherished plants. I knew Lori had to leave us and the first cut was the deepest, the most difficult. We had enjoyed one another and she served us well, but it was her time. She probably was tired of me "keeping her at bay", anyway.

After tearfully removing Lori, I didn't replace her (not possible), but I reworked the bed borders and installed two Cinnamon Girl Distylliums and one Soft Caress Mahonia...all gorgeous in their own right.

Not the same as Lori, but more manageable and just as gorgeous, as time goes on.

I've considered replacing the mail box or at least it's covering. I wasn't quite able to clean it completely without completely destroying the fabric, but it now has this wonderful patina (for lack of a better term, as it's not metallic).

The original design does now show through so I am going to leave it alone.

Another bonus; my tiny front yard seems somewhat larger.

Now I have to get busy restoring the back yard and its much larger beds. That's what winter is for, for me.

Fall - A Time to Prune, Plant and Preen

Well, it is Fall in the Midlands. Not that all the growing and blooming has ceased, but for many of us our landscapes have experienced much growth - for some, out-of-hand growth.

You had (or perhaps, had not) spent much of the summer keeping up with or keeping your beautiful property.

Some of this growth is obvious in some of your more open format trees and shrubs while much of the interior mess is hidden beneath the surface of those more compact shrubs and hedges you've been trimming since April.

Fall (and Winter) is a wonderful season to get at those plants with some well planned and executed pruning to keep them healthy, airy and attractive for next season. A few may need some corrective measures, but you will need to get inside them a little to know what's truly going on with those gorgeous things you spent time and money on.

There are many shrubs and trees which can be pruned in Fall depending on the plants bloom-habit and your preference. Actually, there aren't many plants which can't be pruned (not indiscriminately trimmed or sheared) most any time of year if the right care and techniques are used. And, many will still produce plenty of blooms to enjoy when the time comes. So, if you've missed that ideal time and your favorite whatever(s) is now a mess, let's take care of it soon so you can enjoy it through the holidays and even more so in the Spring.

Depending on the plant, there are many which can be planted or transplanted during the Fall, getting established before and during Winter (If we have one.) and ready to roll next Spring. We don't live in Vermont so the ground temperatures allow for planting virtually year-round. And, you won't be scrambling around during Spring when your existing plants need attention.

Also, with all the humidity, rainfall, growth, and reproduction and its associate droppings, pitch and debris our properties experienced over Spring and Summer, Fall is the perfect time to:

• Prune and/or remove (overgrowth, intruding and encroaching branches, vines, etc.).
• Clean out weeds (remove).
• Pressure wash man-made surfaces - drive and walkways, decks, retaining walls, siding, foundations, etc.
• Re-establish plant bed borders.
• Re-stain/seal decks.
• Simply do some outdoor housekeeping for football season, family and friend visits and the approaching holidays.

And, please remember two things about lawn grasses even after we get out of the growing season (whenever that may be):

• They still take advantage of sunlight so don't wait until you have this downy-like comforter of leaves and/or pine straw on your yard to blow or rake them away - do it when needed.
• Their root system will still enjoy some H2O occasionally even when it's not 90° and 85% humidity.

Need assistance? Give us a call at 803-553-5757, go to back40.us or use the Contact Us feature to the right.

Thank You to the Richland County Master Gardener Association

A few months ago I was contacted by a customer of mine about speaking to and presenting for the Richland County Master Gardener Association (RCMGA). I was flattered, very flattered. I have spoken to garden clubs, but not to Master Gardeners.

She referred me to the person who coordinates and hosts such events and I learned she was also a customer...good company to keep, all the way around.

Approaching the event I realized I confused the date with another event and I had about ten days less to prepare. Most of this occurred during the decline of my father's health and his passing. However, I told the host I would do my best.

Yesterday is when I spoke to the Richland County Master Gardener Association. I hope I did well and everyone received some benefit. I have taught, presented, spoken publicly before and even emceed a few events, but I was not as prepared as I would have preferred and it was also done over Zoom. I have a technology background, but presenting remotely is much different than in-person, which I prefer. There are spacial and lighting issues which are difficult to address in one's home with just a cell phone.

Nonetheless, I am very grateful for having had the opportunity to speak to the RCMGA and I hope to have some relationship with their members and its cause for many more years.

Thank you, Gail, Kate and all the members.

Black Sooty Mold on Plants, Revisited...A Solution

Black Sooty Mold on Camellia Leaves

I addressed black sooty mold not so long ago in another article; however, a few instances in the last months of last year caused me to revisit this issue.

I can do my best to recall all I've learned and then study more, yet the plant world is ever-changing in its given region.

Not that this be the case in hand, but most black sooty mold I have experienced had been on large-leaf shrubs, typically understory plants surrounded by larger shrubs or trees in areas with little airflow.

Last fall I had several customers with plants in open, airy, well-sunlit areas which were inundated with black sooty mold. All were crepe myrtles. Don't be alarmed if you have one or more on you property. Crepe myrtles are hardy and deciduous plants, which is a plus in this case.

Black sooty mold is usually found on the tops of leaves, the cuticle. It has a sooty, almost fuzzy, crusty or even slimy texture and is the result of fungus which feeds on the honeydew (excrement) left behind by aphids, whiteflies or scale. (Assholes, literally) There are other suspects as well which you or someone else may not notice unless you or they are in the right place at the right time. It is amazing how much excrement such tiny creatures can produce as they enjoy the liquids of your plants they suck from them. Then again, this is testament to how much plants transpire and respire all they need and what they don't use.

The good news is:

• The problem is only foliar, not systemic.
• The suspects don't usually suck enough of those nutrients from your plant to cause its demise, although it may kill leaves, cause much ugliness and leaf drop.
• If the plant is deciduous, the problem (not necessarily the residue left behind on the bark) will go away when the plant naturally drop leaves.
• You can remove the black sooty mold, but it may take more work than you wish to do on a Sunday afternoon...more in a moment.
• There is a (systemic, yes) solution...at least my customers say so. And, from what I know, it should work...more in a moment.

Black Sooty Mold on Crepe Myrtle

The image you see is an infected crepe myrtle on one of my customer's properties.

This is nowhere near the coverage I experienced on another customer's property, whereas it covered nearly ten feet of the tree. The surrounding jasmine, pittosporums, ivy and other plants were not grateful one bit for the gift they had received. All were severely blackened, unattractive, but still living. I just worked on them all last week.

You can easily identify black sooty mold by being able to scrape it away from the foliage and it can be removed by using a mild soap (not a detergent or degreaser), letting the soap solution remain until it loosens/breaks up the mold and then rinsing with water. A little pressure behind the water (not your pressure washer) and perhaps a little hand-to-leaf combat may be needed.

This is quite arduous, but the best approach, if you notice the culprits before such occurs, is to apply a natural oil, such as neem oil, to the leaves, but it most likely won't prevent them from returning. (This does work well on white mildew...more in a moment.)

Sometimes, we need to go with man-made prevention.

I have two customers who use BioAdvanced Tree and Shrub Protect & Feed and they are pleased with the results. It was established in the U.S. by Bayer. The active ingredient is Imidacloprid, which is a neurotoxin and is safe for most applications (Read label instructions.) when used properly and is actually used for pest (mainly fleas) treatment on animals. Be mindful around bodies of water with invertebrate fish. And if you are a honey bee keeper, don't spray it in your hive. Seriously, please read the label instructions. I don't want to write another article on the so-called global bee decline.

Mold versus Mildew 

No one wants either, mold or mildew, in their home, on their plants or in their lives. Either one, typically spawns, grows and enjoys moist conditions. 

Without much detail; mold is typically black or green, growing upward and downward, often corrupting or infecting its host while mildew is usually white and remains aligned with the surface of its host.

Mildew is a type of mold, often called, "Pre-stage mold". To learn more, please go to https://molekule.science/mildew-vs-mold-difference/. 

On plants, I usually find white mildew on the underside of large leaf shrubs, such as sasanquas, in areas with poor airflow and limited sunlight. For these situations, I usually apply neem oil, perhaps twice and then remove with high pressure water and perhaps by some hand cleaning.

A common error is to confuse white mildew with scale. White mildew will usually spread white residue and not feel course if rubbed with your thumb, while scale will feel more course and not show any residue. If you have good eyesight or have a magnifying glass, you can look at the leaf in-line with its edge (margin) and will notice some elevation above the leaf surface.

This would be scale, a pest, which may produce black sooty mold over time, perhaps not much time. I don't know. I have seen plants without black sooty mold look completed covered in several weeks.

Hey, this is not an exciting topic, but it may help you have a healthier and prettier landscape.

If you need help with this or any other aspect of your plants, please contact me.

Doug Ingbretsen

803-553-5757

service@back40.us